Each time I return to Cornwall I try to check out another new hotel or self catering option, with the aim of building up a great body of recommendations for the county. When I visited back in March with lil’sis we managed to pack in three places to stay: a return visit to the always excellent The Scarlet with Posetta Baddog, now that they have relaxed their no-dogs-anywhere rule, the glorious self-catering house in Watergate Bay that I wrote about here, and that I know several of you booked to stay in after I wrote it up, and The Lugger Hotel in the tiny, beautiful fishing village of Portloe on Cornwall’s South Coast.
To the casual visitor, Portloe must be one of the most romantic places in England. The houses are arranged around the tiny natural harbour, whose walls are formed by steep rock sides. You can climb right up to the top of the cliffs and walk the perimeter of the Roseland Peninsula.
But, even if you are strapped for time and can’t do the hike, as we were, it’s still a bracing pull up to the top, and it makes a glorious place to watch the sea and the birdlife. The hotel itself is right on the harbour slipway: you couldn’t possibly get closer to the sea. (As P Bad discovered when she nearly got swept away. Chien stupide.)
We were delighted to be given what was clearly the best room in the hotel, with a glorious window seat that opened out right over the harbour slipway. Being able to both go to sleep and wake up to the sound of the waves crashing on the shoreline was wonderful. It’s the kind of room in which I could happily hole up in for weeks to write and read and think.
That being said, the room did suffer a bit from having too big, off the shelf furniture jammed in it (it’s a room crying out for a decent interior designer), making it a squeeze for two people. Overall, the hotel is in need of a bit of TLC from its corporate masters, and we really didn’t enjoy the food in the restaurant for either supper or breakfast, but I can forgive most things when I wake up in the morning to a sea view like this.
Do make absolutely sure you have a guaranteed sea view from your room — this double we had would be best, as otherwise you miss the USP of the hotel. And perhaps pack a sandwich or two.
LLG & her sister were the guests of The Lugger Hotel