The Daily Beauty French Edition: Bioderma Creàline TS H2O Solution Micellaire (Sensibio)

by Sasha Wilkins on August 12, 2012 · 15 comments

Bioderma Creàline TS H2O Solution Micellaire

As I am writing this in France, I thought it apt to make a French product that isn’t yet stocked in bricks & mortar shops in the UK my Daily Beauty pick today. Bioderma Creàline TS H2O Solution Micellaire has been in my bathroom cupboard consistently for nearly ten years now, and is the product I return to again and again and again. It is, quite, simply, my absolute favourite facial cleanser & make-up remover all rolled into one.

I first started using micellar cleansers when a pre-launch bottle of Lancome’s (now discontinued) Eau de Bienfait* arrived on my desk at Conde Nast ten years or so ago.

I was suffering from distressing late-onset-adult-acne at the time (delightful), which in turn was causing my latent rosacea to flare. This was the only cleanser I tried which didn’t make the problem worse and, since then, I have only ever used micellar cleansers on my face.

Bioderma became a long-lasting part of my beauty regimen about nine years back when I was trawling around the pharmacy section of La Samaritaine before it closed for its seemingly endless revamp, and I saw a product that looked pretty similar to my Lancome cleanser.

Micellar cleansers work by grabbing dirt off the face by using both water attracting & water repelling molecules, as opposed to traditional cleansers which work to dissolve makeup. Essentially, they are wipe on, wipe off liquids, which feel like a kind of buffered softened water, so there’s no residue to leave on the skin, so there’s no need for harsh toners – my pet beauty hate – either. (I find tap water incredibly tightening, and cleansing creams and lotions of any kind make my rosacea worse, causing breakouts and blocked pores.)

Bioderma make their red range (re-branded recently as Sensibio, but still frequently found online as Crealine) especially for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin, but all their ranges tackle specific skin problems, and there are sun and baby ranges too. Basically: they are inexpensive and they work. For the last two years or so, two huge bottles of the cleanser (in several of the Bioderma ranges) have been bound together in a deal in French pharmacies for about 16EUR – that’s about a year’s worth. It’s is hideously expensive to buy via mail or online – because of the weight, so it’s a perfect product to buy when you are in France.

I may have discovered Bioderma because I like poking around in French pharmacies but, since then, it’s been revealed to be a perennial make-up artist favourite, and is seen backstage on the makeup benches at pretty much every show.

Spot the bottle on this London Fashion Week SS12 bench:

_MG_0493

That’s because it really does clean the face beautifully, and can be guaranteed not to irritate skin, especially that which has been subjected to the fashion week hell of a different make up look every few hours. It also takes off eye make-up easily, so it’s a great all-purpose addition to any beauty cabinet.

I also have several Bioderma moisturisers for rosacea-prone skin and they are equally good.

Bioderma

*It’s now known as Eau Fraiche Douceur

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{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }

MC August 13, 2012 at 04:04

First, I wanted to say that I love your blog. Great product information on here and especially the stories you tell. Your description of Wenlock… well, let’s just say its my new obscenity for yelling at other car drivers!!
Anyway, I wanted to share some information that may be of interest to your readers, if I may.
The reason your skin feels tight after rinsing in tap water (apart from metals being in tap water) is because very few surfactants (the detergents used in cleansers) rinse well. 
Wiping your face with toner after rinsing would help remove these sticky surfactants. It is their residue that causes the tight feeling more than water.
Micellar solutions are essentially very, very diluted detergents with some humectants added for that soft feeling. Humectants are moisture attracting ingredients such as sodium lactate or glycerin.
Since these surfactants are so diluted, the water hating ends of the detergent molecule clump together in the water to form a micelle; a sperical shaped clump.
When you apply this to your face, you break this cluster of molecules and the oil loving ends of the detergent molecule act on your make up and face grime as they would in any cleanser; they mix with the oils on your skin. Then, when you stop wiping your skin, the molecules gather together again creating what the advertisers describe as a ‘grabbing’ of the gunk on your skin, encasing the oily grime within each micelle. 
The only problem is that unless you then rinse your skin or use toner to remove these micelles, you are not always removing the grime. It is, in effect, a leave-on cleanser which in the long run could cause problems if not removed fully. Not only because of the grime, but because the alkaline nature of some surfactants/detergents and emulsifiers in the solution can eventually upset the pH balance of the skin. So I would always rinse or use a toner after using any cleanser.
But the important thing to note is that this product is essentially water, probably 99%. It will be distilled water so that none of the metals that occur in tap water are left on your skin which can cause the tight feeling, but none the less, it is pure water. 
And for this reason I find it difficult to justify the price tag when you can buy a litre of distilled water for less than a pound. 
To make your own Micellar cleanser you just add a drop of shampoo or washing up liquid to an espresso cup of (distilled) water with perhaps a drop of glycerin or honey for the humectant qualities. Baby shampoo can be used for cleaning your eyes. I use the baby shampoo mixture to wipe my eyelids down as I suffer from rosacea there too. If you intend to keep this mixture then you would need to add preservatives to it, but at such a low cost, there’s no need to hold onto it. 
My favourite toner by the way is pure rose water which is essentially distilled water with the distillate parts of rose essential oil after extraction. Again, feels like soft silk on your face and eyes.
I hope this information is of interest :)

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tiggyt August 16, 2012 at 06:53

@MC:
Thanks so much, that’s really informative. I bought a Nuxe micellar water once but found that it left my skin tight and dry: the ingredients list revealed a lot of alcohol in spite of it being touted for sensitive skin. It made me dismiss micellar cleansers completely. The Bioderma one sounds better but thanks to you I’m looking forward to whipping up some cleansing water to try this evening!

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Louise August 13, 2012 at 05:05

I picked this up on a recent trip to Paris, and love it! It is really effective, but still gentle on the skin. There are some great things to be found in French pharmacies.

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MissN August 13, 2012 at 05:11

I also use this after being introduced to it by a make-up artist a few years ago. I am not keen on cleansers that are heavy or leave residue on the skin, so this was a revelation. I stock up when I go to Morocco and live in constant fear of it being discontinued. Really enjoying The Daily Beauty features – it’s like snooping in someones bathroom without the privacy issues!

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Abigail August 13, 2012 at 07:20

Hi,

I was wondering where you’d recommend to buy this from? I’d quite like to give it a try!

Thanks.

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Angie August 13, 2012 at 09:03

Hi Sasha
I can’t endorce your recommedation enough! 2 years ago I was heading off to France and you kindly recommended it as an affordable buy for me and a friend’s teenage daughter to hunt for (which would also give her the chance to practice her language skills – A level results this week!). I bought 2 bottles for each of us and I’m just finishing off my second bottle of Sebium H20 for combination and oily skin. I don’t use it all the time but it really lasts and lasts so is great value, and it doesn’t leave that greasy finish that cleansing creams do or your skin feeling scoured as many other soaps and cleaners do. I’ve just been on a whistle stop visit to Dieppe (thoroughly recommended) and dashed into the one open pharmacy we passed on the way to a great restaurant and was delighted to find a bottle of the Creàline version which I know was worth lugging round town for the evening!

You also highlighted the La Roche Posay range and I’m a convert to that too! I love buying products abroad as it’s the perfect daily reminder of wonderful trips. So – thank you Sasha! I’m really looking forward to reading more of your Daily Beauty series.

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Sweet Freak August 13, 2012 at 15:35

Wow, I’ve never heard of it. Merci for the product recommendation!

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Kit August 13, 2012 at 18:09

I bought one in Hong Kong, I must say it was the best out of all the cleansers out there, the price was okay though.

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Nats August 14, 2012 at 08:45

I have been using the Sebium H20 version and it is the best cleanser ever for my skin. I stock up on my twice yearly Paris shopping trips and chuck in some Rene Futerer coloured hair care products which I can recommend, Avibon cream and anything else that takes my fancy. I just wish our pharmacies sold the same products and not E45, Rimmel and Constance Carroll!

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Anne August 14, 2012 at 13:58

I love Bioderma products – and I always stock up on them in one of the many ‘parapharmacies’ when I’m in France.The Bioderma face exfoliator is the best :)

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Laura August 14, 2012 at 15:50

I’ve been enjoying catching up on your blog while on holiday in Italy. After reading your post last night, I spied a bottle of this on a pharmacy shelf in Sorrento today and picked it up on your recommendation – my skin needs a bit of a break from face wipes methinks! I’ve used it once already and it felt very nice on my skin. May even pop back to pick up another bottle before I leave since it sounds pretty impossible to find in the UK. Thanks for the recommendation. Love your blog!
Laura x

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