On Thursday night I’m off to Cornwall for the third time this year, to stay in a self-catering house in the small seaside town of St Mawes. And that reminded me that one of the absolute nicest things we did in Cornwall on our wonderful trip during the March heatwave was head to The Nare Hotel for lunch, at their relaxed brasserie The Quarterdeck, on our last day. The hotel is perched above Carne Beach on the Roseland Peninsula, just a few miles away from St Mawes.
We hadn’t eaten at all well at another hotel the night before, and breakfast wasn’t much better, so we were chomping at the bit for a proper meal, hopefully using local Cornish ingredients and, oh goodness, did The Nare deliver.
It’s one of those old school hotels that feels a little as though it has been caught in time, perched over the beach, in the way that one imagines all good seaside hotels should be.
As it happens my great-grandparents, and my grandparents all used to stay at The Nare in the 1950s, and so it was lovely to be in a place where we could imagine them. That’s not to say that it is stuffy, overly formal, or fly-in-aspic-old fashioned. It’s a very comfortable & traditional hotel that hasn’t seen the leaden hand of low rent boutique-isation or cheap fit outs via IKEA.
And then there was lunch.
We sat outside on the terrace in the sunshine with P Bad between us, luxuriating in the quiet comfort of it all, as plates of scrumptious, simple food kept arriving:
a huge platter of local prawns that would have been generous at twice the price, followed by a giant bowl of moules marinieres for lil’sis that would have defeated Gargantua himself (although she made a pretty good stab at it), and for me a salad followed by pasta. All fresh, local ingredients, cooked with love and attention.
P Bad was pretty happy too.
That’s because this hotel actively encourages faithful companions, and has a dog’s menu at lunch. Madam was bought a bowl of chicken so large that we had to ask them to take away three quarters of it before she even got started. (Sausage dogs only having small tummies.)
After lunch we snoozed in the hotel’s sunroom, and then walked madam on the wide sands below the hotel.
I say walk, but what I really mean is she went delirious with joy and tried to drown herself. Again.
As the sun went down, we walked back to our little rental car, and off to Truro for a quick supper and the sleeper train home to London from Truro station.
LLG, lil’sis & Posetta Baddog were lunchtime guests of The Nare Hotel