This simple glass bottle contains just one fluid ounce of Nasomatto’s Nuda. That’s because it is an extrait, a highly concentrated fragrance, stronger than an eau de parfum.
Clearly conceived in part as an homage to the French jasmine absolute by master perfumer Alessandro Gaultieri, Nuda is the eighth scent in his Nasomatto fragrance project, all of which have been formulated to provoke specific emotional responses.
The jasmine in Nuda comes from a tiny farm near the Cote d’Azur where the flowers are only picked at night to increase the strength of their smell, and it takes 10,000 jasmine flowers to make just one drop.
The fragrance itself is incredibly potent: the lightest touch of the atomiser envelopes you in the most intense jasmine cloud.
But it is not a fresh, wafting on a summer evening breeze jasmine, but a thwack you in the face sensual shock and awe campaign. You need to really, really love jasmine, as I do, to want to wear this but, as it dries down, it reveals a softer, muskier note and after about half an hour it rounds and balances to a heady, floral, almost leathery base.
Of course, it isn’t just jasmine that creates this all encompassing experience, but Gaultieri makes a point of not revealing his scent notes. Possibly the most interesting perfumer working today, he is indulging his desire to create perfumes “free from market rules”, after eighteen years of developing fragrances for clients including Valentino, Versace, Helmut Lang & Renzo Rosso at Diesel.
In his fragrance manifesto, he hides his influences and ideas behind cryptic statements such as, “I take advantage of what you always said about me”.
Although I do get this gnomic pronouncement: “I give advantage to people longing to distinguish themselves.”
That sounds about right.
Photo: Nuda shot by LLG in a room at the Andaz Fifth Avenue, New York