Untitled by Martin Margiela

Every Maison Martin Margiela piece has a cream calico label with a series of numbers on it. Indecipherable to anyone without a key, each number represents the specific line to which the piece belongs. This line could be womenswear, menswear, shoes, eyewear, accessories, fine jewellery…and so on.

In this case, Maison Martin Margiela’s debut fragrance is part of a new line – Line 3. So now you know.  Of course, now that Diesel own MMM, it was only a matter of time before a scent became part of the house’s offering – it’s far too valuable a product line to keep on eschewing.

Billed as a unisex fragrance, it is described as a woody green floral, with a top note of galbanum. It’s a note that the perfumer Daniela Andrier (Givaudan) uses in several of her scents (notably Infusion d’Iris for Prada). Very complex, somewhat musky but green and balsam-like too, it’s a note with history. It was mentioned in the Book of Exodus that it was used in the making of a perfume for the Tabernacle and, perfect for the new millenium, Rashi commented that  bitter galabanum was included in the incense as a reminder of deliberate and unrepentant sinners.

So musky, green galbanum is joined by bitter box green, with middle notes of green-smelling  lentiscus, incense & bitter orange. The base notes are sweet jasmine and musky cedar.  Maison Martin Margiela describe it as a huge armful of plants harvested just after the rain. I found it almost impossible to describe: it’s fresh, extremely complex, almost like drying laundry on a windy day but with a warm human dry down. It seems to polarise people: they either grab me to ask where it’s from or wrinkle their noses in disgust.

The bottle has been designed by Fabien Baron to look as though it has been partly immersed in a pot of white paint – a recurrent conceptual Margiela reference – with an Olivetti typeface.

Maison Martin Margiela Untitled will be available from 25th March exclusively in Selfridges in the UK.

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14 comments

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galbanum is a beautiful material- but I am a very big fan of green fragrances. I am looking forward to trying this- it’s about time the green fragrances had a bit of a renaissaince

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I am a unrepentant sinner so I had better get this and wear it to remind everybody! I like to wear scents that people either love or hate. I don’t find the bottle or the box very attractive though, a bit medicinal, like a trial drugs packaging, if you hadn’t have posted about it and aroused my interest, I would bypass it on looks alone.

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Hi, are you still in London? I think I saw you yesterday at St. James Park station but wasn’t sure so I didn’t say hi. Either that, or it was a look alike!

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I love the packaging. Will have to check this out.

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After 3 years of going without perfume (I was into aromatherapy), I’m beginning to miss smelling nice (without the bother of re-applying every other hour, like I do with aromatherapy scents)! I was rummaging through some storage boxes at my parents’ for old bottles and didn’t like anything I saw.. I wore Chanel Allure most of the time, and then I found bottles of stuff I wore in high school! (Escape, Lauren, Anais Anais) Yikes. Am thankful for your more contemporary suggestions!

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I’m waiting with (literally) bated breath till this comes out in NY. Am envious that you’ve smelt it!

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I was a big admirer of independent Martin Margiela – now that they belong to Diesel, I’m not so sure. The parfume is nice though – nothing less, but nothing more (or probably I just expected more “strangeness” from M.M.M. …)

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beautiful packaging. i love the prada scent, so will probably love this one too. x shayma

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I think I am actually addicted to it

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asked lady in dept store about this yest, told her about the diesel association- she was so rude, she rolled her eyes at me, ‘we dont carry brands like diesel perfume in Holt Renfrew’. how utterly rude! hrmph wonder where to find in the US? x

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Silly patronising woman. How stupid to be so tude a) to a customer & b) to pontificate when she was talking out of her bottom Print this off and wave it at her! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Margiela LLGxx ps I’ll ask the UK publicist if they know x

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